Hori Real Arcade Pro 3 SE (PS3)


  • Seimitsu LS-32-01 Arcade Stick
  • Seimitsu buttons PS-14-G & PS-14-D(Start/Select)
  • Stick lever can be set as digital, left analog, or right analog
  • Quick disconnects on wiring for buttons
  • USB wired for PC and PS3 compatibility
  • PS/Home Button XMB(Cross Media Bar) navigation
  • Button layout:

[] /\ R1 L1
X O R2 L2

Additional Links:

Where to Buy:

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16 Responses to Hori Real Arcade Pro 3 SE (PS3)

  1. […] Hori Real Arcade PRO 3 SE (PS3) Possibly related posts: (automatically generated)Arcade Sticks « SDTEKKEN.COM – Tekken News Resource!Hori Arcade Stick Mania!Hori Real Arcade Pro 3 SA Is Coming!Hori Real Arcade Pro 3 […]

  2. Ben says:

    Could this be the Gamestop bundle with Tekken 6? Colors seem to say so…

  3. Eddierang says:

    Markman’s saying it because typically Tekken is played on Sanwa and Tekken 6/6 BR official arcade cabinet uses Black/Dark Hai Sanwa Buttons and Gray Ball Top

  4. djKun says:

    Hey Mark, do you know when this will be available to us like via through Play-asia or another way?

  5. tekkenfan92 says:

    what’s the difference between this and the normal one?

    • MarkMan says:

      This one is equipped with Seimitsu parts. While similar to the current HRAP3’s Sanwa JLF stick, they are completely different beasts. The main difference is ‘different’ parts. Also no stock Hori buttons. It’s all SEimitsu.

      This one will most likely have the traditional/universal mounting bracket.

  6. Tenshimitsu says:

    What is your personal experience with Seimitsu and how would you compare it to Sanwa? I’ve got a custom-made Sanwa stick, thinking about buying seimitsu as well.

  7. Jimmy says:

    Do all Seimitsu sticks come w/a 4-way or an 8-way? I have an SF4 TE but I’m debating between this & the HRAP 3 SA to have as an extra joystick. Thx!

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  11. George A. Cepeda says:

    The HRAP 3 was a WEIRD beast of a joystick where the PCB was concerned.
    In the HRAP 2 series, the PCB lies completely under the housing that contains the switches for the Turbo functions. On the HRAP 3 (all the ones I own — SA, SE, and generic HRAP 3), the PCB protudes into the interior of the case. So, if you look at it from the top, the PCB is pointing downward.
    The orientation of that PCB is why Hori wouldn’t certify the Hayabusa control lever as being compatible with the HRAP 3 series. Once installed on the HRAP faceplate, the Hayabusa lever’s mounting plate (upper left corner looking down as if you could X-ray/see through the faceplate) actually sits ON TOP OF the PCB! That’s of course a big “NO-NO”!
    It’s easy to resolve that issue. You measure the Hayabusa mounting plate against the universal mount area and mark the area of the upper left corner of the MP (roughly 3/4″ by 3/4″) to cut off. This is the only part of the MP that actually hits the HRAP PCB. You make sure that the cut-off area DOES NOT include any of the mounting screw positions on the Hayabusa mounting plate. And then you cut off your upper left corner. The Hayabusa will now fit into the HRAP case and the MP will not impact the HRAP 3 PCB.
    There’s still another issue, though. The 5-prong adapter for the Hayabusa lever is right under the “X” button. The solution I found was suggested by another guy who had the same problem on his Qanba joystick base. The Hayabusa 5-prong is held onto the lever’s base by a screw. Simple — just unscrew the 5-prong piece from the base and allow it to droop down at about a 15-18 degree angle from the horizontal. You can freeze it in place by hot gluing it to the inner lip of the Hayabusa’s baseplate. The hot glue will immobile the 5-prong wires and keep them being constantly stressed. Now, you have plenty of clearance to plug in the joystick without colliding with the “X” button.
    If you ever decide to remove the Hayabusa lever and replace it, you can undo the 5-prong mod by melting the hot gun glue with a hair dryer. Then, you can screw the 5-prong adaptor back onto the Hayabusa base. Goes without saying, keep your Hayabusa 5-prong screw just in case! A ziploc bag for small jewelry and a good tackle box will keep you from losing vital screws that are hard to replace!
    These are simple mods but you have to the tools to cut (either a Dremel with cutting wheel or a steel-cutting saw) the Hayabusa Mounting Plate which is the rub! If you have don’t a hot glue gun already, they’re cheap to buy at any art supply store or Wal Mart.
    Common sense dictates YOU USE SAFETY GLASSES WITH ANY ROTARY POWER TOOLS but I’ll repeat that here just in case that memo didn’t get around! I DID get hit on my cheek by metal cut (with the Dremel cutting wheel) from the Hayabusa MP. Fortunately, I had my safety glasses on and wasn’t hurt.
    I’ve done this Mounting Plate mod twice for two different joystick cases where the Hayabusa MP did impact important internal structures. in both cases, I had to cut the upper left corner of the MP off to fit in the Hayabusa control lever.
    I cleaned up the Hayabusa MP after cutting it with the Dremel wheel because it tends to leave nice burs on the edges of the metal that can cut you when you handle the control lever. I used metal files to smooth down the cut area and nobody’s going to get cut after that!
    The other option to deal with the HRAP 3 PCB besides cutting the corner off the Hayabusa MP is to swap the Hayabua MP with a Sanwa JLF P1 Mounting Plate which is narrower than the Hayabusa MP and won’t sit on top of the HRAP PCB. It’s compatible with the Hayabusa but it won’t cover the entire base of the Hayabusa which is closer in size to the Seimitsu LS-32-01. You have to reuse the Hayabusa MP’s screws with the P1 MP because the Hayabusa MP screws have different screw pitches than the Sanwa P1 screws. The Sanwa screws won’t thread properly into the Hayabusa base.
    I didn’t replace the LS-32 on HRAP 3 SE because A) I LIKE the LS-32; it’s my favorite Seimitsu lever and my second-favorite lever overall, period; and B) I wanted to keep the joystick base as close to stock as possible even with the swapout in buttons and microswitches. I didn’t like the PS-14-G buttons that came with the HRAP 3 SE so I installed Seimitsu PS-15’s with SW-68 microswitches (for softer feel; they’re still harder than Sanwa pushbuttons and Seimitsu Pearls but nowhere near as stiff as the Seimitsu PS-14-G’s). The SW-68 is swappable with the PS-14-D microswitches used in the Seimitsu 24mm buttons as well as the PS-15 and Seimitsu Pearl button lines. The only other changes besides a different ball handle (a Hori North American Tekken 5 ball handle), a shaft cover (which the LS-32 didn’t have available at the time; I modded a clear JLF-CD shaft to fit the LS-32), and the 30mm replacements were OBSF-24’s which had swapped out plungers since Sanwa doesn’t manufacture black-rimmed 24mm buttons. I wanted to keep the color scheme of the original HRAP 3 SE layout. I sold the HRAP 3 SE’s original pushbuttons and balltop handle to another SRK member who liked Seimitsu pushbuttons.
    On the HRAP 3 SE, the PCB was a bit different. It was modded to allow the LS-32 to be installed without the lever’s prong adapter overlapping any button. The LS-32-01 5-prong points DOWNWARD instead of to the right like in the HRAP 3 SA and generic HRAP 3. That enables the LS-32-01 to avoid the 5-prong/X-button overlap issue you encounter with the Hayabusa lever.
    The modded Hayabusa lever works wonderfully in the classic HRAP (1-3) case. Hori just created a situation with the prong adaptor orientation (usually to the right) and PCB that makes modding the Hayabusa mandatory for clean installation.
    On my HRAP 2 SA, I only had to do the 5-prong adaptor mod since the HRAP 2 PCB (as mentioned earlier) lies completely under the Turbo switch casing.

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